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Sunday 27/03/04
3.8/15.3 24.4/-34
Set
off towards Sale and ended up in the back blocks of that very place,
somewhat lost owing to the fact that someone must have souvenired the
signposts. As we found wider bitumen and drivers honking
horns at the old fart driving a slow truck we worked out where we
were. McDonalds & KFC were a bit of a giveaway that
we were in a major population center and soon after a big green sign
told us which way for the tourist coastal drive to Melbourne via
Wilson’s Prom. The landscape was ever changing
through hills and rivers and then across parched and geometric
farmland.
I’d
pulled out the GPS and punched in the waypoints for two campsites east
and west of Golden Beach. The further we went the further we
got away from our target which gave a bit of a clue something was
wrong. I had selected the wrong goto. That
corrected over lunch the GPS told us, much more believably, that we had
21Km to go and led us right to the campsite driveway. Clever
toy.
Paradise Beach campsite is a gem freebie. Room for big rigs,
pit toilets, huge rainwater tanks which are empty and right on the
beach. Tip for others, bring water as the whole area is on
tank water and the nearest tap is 34Km back at Sale.
I
bought some fresh bluebait at the corner shop coming into golden beach
and the lady told me that ‘they’ were getting
salmon on surf poppers. What? A hook with a small
marble sized white head and bright blue feathers an $3.45
each. Armed with the knowledge that fresh bait is best I
declined. I spent an hour and a half in the late arvo and got
nothing. Others had got fish earlier of course.
This
morning I set out early to try again and while watching my rod barely
stir in the breeze had to tolerate the guy on my right pull in FIVE
salmon. I asked for his recipe and, you guessed, blue surf
poppers. You don’t even cast and wind them, just
clip them on like bait. Duh! He
‘loaned’ me one which I clipped on and
casted. It had barely hit the water and I was struggling with
a 3Kg salmon. Next cast my line snapped, I lost the tackle
and his popper.
Elated, embarrassed and frustrated I decided to hitchhike to the shop
to buy some poppers. What a town. Two minutes for a
lift in and the same for a lift back. Just in time to pay my
debt and get told by the expert that fishing wouldn’t be much
chop for the rest of the day. I spent a few more hours
confirming his judgement J. What the heck, there’s
two oversize fillets in the fridge for dinner.
Has
been a good campground with some friendly people and good
chats. Tomorrow, after a morning fish, we’ll head
through Seaspray, back to the hiway and to Woodside Beach.
Monday 29/03/04
4.6/20.1 24.1/-62
Bit
low on power this morning. My body clock goes crazy with
daylight saving time changes. We watched the DVD specials for
Forrest Gump and then the movie. It’s so well done,
smiles & tears.
Went
fishing before breakfast and did just fine. Landed one (just
eaten), kissed and released a small one then lost a big one right on
the sand. Margaret reckons one a day is all you can eat, OK
but two are fun.
Either side of Golden Beach, that is 3Kms east to Paradise and 20 or so
west to Seaspray, are 20+ fabulous ocean front and FREE
campgrounds. East is pets & pit loos, west is no pets
and no frills but views and surf. I have never seen anything
this good for free so get in while it still is.
Water is rare here but Seaspsray is on town water. Driving in
we came past their ‘Neighbourhood Park’ and saw a
big tap and water meter feeding the retic watering system for the not
too well maintained garden beds. A discreet park, well pull
up on the grass with the tap on the blind side of R2, swap the watering
connection temporarily for our hose and we were full and on our
way. It feels a bit naughty but you gotta do it J.
Worked our way down to Woodside with strange stuff splashing on the
windscreen. Remember rain? They got about 10mm over
2 hours here today and that’s the best news in
months. We were heading for Reeve’s Beach
which was in the camp site book. Some sites have GPS
waypoints listed and it’s a nice feeling to see the distance
to the destination counting down when we’ve guessed a couple
of turns on unsignposted roads. As Reeves had no listing I
judged the bearing from the touring atlas knowing that the GPS standard
(WGS84) differs a bit to common map formats. Don’t
know why as degrees east of Greenwich should be the same regardless but
anyway my rough judgement was within 10Km and good enuff to show us
that the camp book description ‘10Km south of Woodside
beach’ did not mean go to Woodside Beach then
south. Neither did it mention head for McLaughlins Beach and
you will accidentally find Reeves Beach Road which ends in a reserve
that you have to guess actually is Reeve’s Beach.
Today was a milestone for Margaret. SHE DROVE THE TRUCK for
the first time and for about 10kms including gear changes, small
bridges, intersections, pulling up using the exhaust break and applying
the maxi break. Well done Margaret.
Tuesday 30/03/04
5.4/16.8
24.5/-45
Reeves is a nice camp with grassy area and a pit loo. It sits
in a tunnel between dunes parallel to the beach so there are no views
but it would be protected in windy weather. Fishing was
disappointing. I can only describe the difference between our
last location where things were great and here. At Paradise
the water deepened quickly from the shore with waves breaking up to
100M out. I reckon I can cast all that lead, bait and lures
out about 70-80M which gets close to the back waves.
I’m told the salmon chase into the waves from open water
diving through the churned sand but don’t like it too
shallow. Reeve’s Beach is currently very shallow
with the waves starting 300-400M out and churned sand clearly visible
that far. There is also a monster east-west rip running which
will take a 4oz lead star sinker from 50M left to 100M right in two
minutes. Bottom line, lamb chops tonite J.
Heading out this morning taking the closest coastal roads &
tracks towards Wilson’s Prom.
Wednesday 31/03/04
5.0/14.5
24.5/-39
Just
pleasant slow driving on narrow back roads yesterday. First
detour was to Port Albert which fronts the islands off Gippsland,
French, Snake etc. Grey cloud and drizzle for most of the day
which ain’t the best for touring but we have been spoiled
with good weather while the farmers went thirsty.
We
picked Barry’s Beach off the Map as a lunch stop and last
fishing spot before we got into Marine National Park. They
need to rename this place. It’s 6Km in from the
hiway but the first sign says ‘no beach
access’. Then you get ‘no through
road’ and finally ‘trespassers
prosecuted’ with everything gated and fenced. All
we found at the end was a building material crusher, hay transport
depot and the main event, an Esso depot with no entry and
cameras. No swimming or fishing down here!
Lunch at a rest area on 9 mile creek and on through Toora where we came
across a stunning array of wind turbines on the hilltops.
There were signs nailed up all over declaiming them as environmental
vandals and protesting against any more. OK they sure are
big, visible and noisy (wind whooshing on the blades) close up but
surely they have to be considered as an alternative to fossil fueled
power. Anyway I pointed R2 at the road up to the viewing
area, selected low range third, wound on the hand throttle and sat back
for 10 minutes while we chugged up at 15Km/h. For anyone
who’s awed by big machinery as I am it’s well worth
a look.
A
quick stop at Foster to get ripped off by a little supermarket and we
headed into our overnighter at Yanakie with the GPS counting down to
the very doorstep. Two motorhomes and two caravans using this
official rest area which has loos and an electric bbq which may be best
suited as a foot warmer if you cared to stand on it for 20
minutes. We are 5Km east of Wilson’s
Prom. Have found out the entry fee is $9.30, camping fee
unknown. Shall go in today for a check out and decide on
camping later. Grey day again and threatening shattered
scours.
Wednesday Evening.
We
headed into Wilson’s Prom under grey clouds and
showers. Unfortunately it didn’t get any
better. At the gate we found that entry is indeed $9.30 and
camping an additional $9.70 which does not have to be paid on entry but
can be paid later at the visitor info center 30Kms in at Tidal
River. They accept visa at the entrance and although supposed
to be a $15 minimum the entrance fee was accepted. Even tho
we could see only intermittent spectacular views through clearings in
cloud and rain the place is Nike. Southern most part of the
Oz mainland and a national park since 1890 you have to be thankful that
developers didn’t turn it into an expensive suburb.
We checked out the camp sites, muddy ground, no views, cold and
raining. Drove and walked to the beaches, very shallow
protected by with lovely white sands. Went up to the Mount
Oberon car park and walking trail departure point, looked down on cloud
with some glimpses of promised fabulous views. And decided it
would be a great place to come back to on a fine day. The
main camping area is a tad more organised and developed than we usually
care for but would probably have a nice communal atmosphere if people
got out of their tents and caravans. As for the wildlife I
think they were all somewhere sheltering from the cold wind and rain
while laughing at the silly tourists walking around outside.
Drove out around 2.30pm and headed for our next camp at Bear Gully
Reserve. Once again the GPS did well. We misjudged
a turn and ended up at Walkerville North which was not such a bad
error. Earmarked a spot beside a bbq and loo for later if
nothing better came up. Back up the hill. left, left, and
with the GPS counting down to a couple of K’s from our
destination I decided to follow my nose down an unsealed road and we
ended up in a little gem. Walkerville South boat ramp up
against a sign for Cape Liptrap Coastal Park. As the weather
was clearing we walked up some newly constructed timber stairs and off
along a narrow walking track which took us around the headland via some
good lookouts. And I do mean good. Even tho
visibility ain’t great yet we can still make out the entire
shoreline to WP with mountains and islands in every
direction. Being a large protected bay the water here is very
shallow and there is a great deal of submersed and washed up big
seaweed so it’s not a fishing spot. Ah well, pork
chops and salad tonite.
A
most unexpected and unwanted phone call came in after 5pm. A
young lady from P&O to tell us that their employees, our
tenants, are being moved to Brisbane and no longer require the
house. Shit their only 11 months into a 2 year
lease. She said that P&O will continue to pay the
rent but want to offload the lease. I can smell some fun and
games (not) coming up here, the best laid plans etc.!
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